How many opportunities in life does one have to watch a sumo wrestler get his hair done? We were delighted to watch several on our visit to the Sumo Beya. On our visit to see the Japanese Sumo Wrestlers at their Beya, or stable, we were able to witness the weekly grooming of their hair. We had repaired to the 3rd floor tatami matted room, were eating the chanko or meal, while the sumo wrestlers, fresh from their workout,  were taking showers. One by one, the highest ranking first, would enter the room, towel in hand, wearing a nice clean pair of boxer shorts. Of course, they modeled these outrageously printed cotton togs with great style. I couldn’t help but notice that one sumo had  the English words “Joy Street” printed in a  black and white pattern on his boxers; while another was sporting  an ode to Mickey Mouse on his. Each wrestler walked straight from the door of  the room, past all three dining tables, making a bee-line toward the “hair salon” setup and the two  hairdressers wearing aprons.  A set up of plastic bins with tools of the trade, a waste basket, and a floor cushion defined the “salon” area that awaited. Each big wrestler found the customer’s seat, then sat cross legged on the cushion and patiently awaited the “operation”. The Mongolian wrestler, first in rank, read the newspaper while having his hair “done”. First, the hairdresser cut the ties that held the wrestler’s hair in a topknot. He then applied a waxlike gel or pomade, which was passed around so the visitors could examine it.  This substance was in a red flat metal container, and it smelled like a barber shop. The hairdresser combed this pomade through the hair, coating it evenly. The straight black oriental hair glistened as it was pulled tautly toward the back of the head. The hairdresser then determined just the right amount of slack necessary, and using one hand deftly, he pulled a waxed thread from a container on his cart, wrapped it tightly several times around the bundled hair, tied it into a special knot, then cut the cord with a pair of small scissors. Again the hair was combed into a perfect bundle, with attention to making it as straight, even and flat as possible. It was then doubled over, with the tail end folded on top of the head toward the sumo wrestler’s face, creating a topknot. Once again, the hairdresser reached for his container of waxed threads. While holding the hair in place, he wrapped another cord several times around the bundled hair, tied the cord in a special knot, then snipped it with a pair of small scissors. The hair, now affixed into place, was good for another week of service to the tradition and practice of Japanese Sumo Wrestling.

PHOTOS: Upper Left: The Beya’s first ranked, a Mongolian (reading the newspaper) having his hair unbundled. Lower Left: The finished product. Center: Sumo Champion memorialized in a huge painting in the nearby subway station. Upper Right: The Beya’s second ranked sumo wrestler wincing as his hair is pulled into place. Lower Right: The finished product.

JOURDAN ARPELLE-ZIEGLER                                            BACK TO MAP PAGE